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Height of the Rocky Mountains
Height of the Rocky Mountains. VARIOUS estimates
have been made of the height of the Rocky Mountains, but it is
doubtful whether any have, as yet, done justice to their real
altitude, which promises to place them only second to the highest
mountains of the known world. Their height has been diminished to
the eye by the great elevation of the plains from which they rise.
They consist, according to Long, of ridges, knobs, and peaks,
variously disposed. The more elevated parts are covered with
perpetual snows, which contribute to give them a luminous, and, at a
great distance, even a brilliant appearance; whence they derive,
among some of the first discoverers, the name of the Shining
Mountains.
James's Peak has generally been cited as the highest of the chain;
and its elevation above the common level has been ascertained, by a
trigonometrical measurement, to be about eight thousand five hundred
feet. Mr. Long, however, judged, from the position of the snow near
the summits of other peaks and ridges at no great distance from it,
that they were much higher. Having heard Professor Renwick, of New
York, express an opinion of the altitude of these mountains far
beyond what had usually been ascribed to them, we applied to him for
the authority on which he grounded his observation, and here subjoin
his reply:
Columbia College, New York, February 23, 1836.
Dear Sir,—In compliance with your request, I have to communicate
some facts in relation to the heights of the Rocky Mountains, and
the sources whence I obtained the information.
In conversation with Simon M'Gillivray, Esq., a partner of the
Northwest Company, he stated to me his impression, that the
mountains in the vicinity of the route pursued by the traders of
that company were nearly as high as the Himalayas. He had himself
crossed by this route, seen the snowy summits of the peaks, and
experienced a degree of cold which required a spirit thermometer to
indicate it. His authority for the estimate of the heights was a
gentleman who had been employed for several years as surveyor of
that company. This conversation occurred about sixteen years since.
A year or two afterwards, I had the pleasure of dining, at Major
Delafield's with Mr. Thompson, the gentleman referred to by Mr.
M'Gillivray. I inquired of him in relation to the circumstances
mentioned by Mr. M'Gillivray, and he stated that, by the joint means
of the barometric and trigonometric measurement, he had ascertained
the height of one of the peaks to be about twenty-five thousand
feet, and there were others of nearly the same height in the
vicinity.
I am, dear sir, To W. Irving, Esq. Yours truly, JAMES RENWICK.
Suggestions with respect to the Indian tribes,
and the protection of our Trade.
IN the course of this work, a few general remarks have been hazarded
respecting the Indian tribes of the prairies, and the dangers to be
apprehended from them in future times to our trade beyond the Rocky
Mountains and with the Spanish frontiers. Since writing those
remarks, we have met with some excellent observations and
suggestions, in manuscript, on the same subject, written by Captain
Bonneville, of the United States army, who had lately returned from
a long residence among the tribes of the Rocky Mountains. Captain B.
approves highly of the plan recently adopted by the United States
government for the organization of a regiment of dragoons for the
protection of our western frontier, and the trade across the
prairies. "No other species of military force," he observes, "is at
all competent to cope with these restless and wandering hordes, who
require to be opposed with swiftness quite as much as with strength;
and the consciousness that a troop, uniting these qualifications, is
always on the alert to avenge their outrages upon the settlers and
traders, will go very far towards restraining them from the
perpetration of those thefts and murders which they have heretofore
committed with impunity, whenever stratagem or superiority of force
has given them the advantage. Their interest already has done
something towards their pacification with our countrymen. From the
traders among them, they receive their supplies in the greatest
abundance, and upon very equitable terms; and when it is remembered
that a very considerable amount of property is yearly distributed
among them by the government, as presents, it will readily be
perceived that they are greatly dependent upon us for their most
valued resources. If, superadded to this inducement, a frequent
display of military power be made in their territories, there can be
little doubt that the desired security and peace will be speedily
afforded to our own people. But the idea of establishing a permanent
amity and concord amongst the various east and west tribes
themselves, seems to me, if not wholly impracticable, at least
infinitely more difficult than many excellent philanthropists have
hoped and believed. Those nations which have so lately emigrated
from the midst of our settlements to live upon our western borders,
and have made some progress in agriculture and the arts of
civilization, have, in the property they have acquired, and the
protection and aid extended to them, too many advantages to be
induced readily to take up arms against us, particularly if they can
be brought to the full conviction that their new homes will be
permanent and undisturbed; and there is every reason and motive, in
policy as well as humanity, for our ameliorating their condition by
every means in our power. But the case is far different with regard
to the Osages, the Kanzas, the Pawnees, and other roving hordes
beyond the frontiers of the settlements. Wild and restless in their
character and habits, they are by no means so susceptible of control
or civilization; and they are urged by strong, and, to them,
irresistible causes in their situation and necessities, to the daily
perpetuation of violence and fraud. Their permanent subsistence, for
example, is derived from the buffalo hunting grounds, which lie a
great distance from their towns. Twice a year they are obliged to
make long and dangerous expeditions, to procure the necessary
provisions for themselves and their families. For this purpose
horses are absolutely requisite, for their own comfort and safety,
as well as for the transportation of their food, and their little
stock of valuables; and without them they would be reduced, during a
great portion of the year, to a state of abject misery and
privation. They have no brood mares, nor any trade sufficiently
valuable to supply their yearly losses, and endeavor to keep up
their stock by stealing horses from the other tribes to the west and
southwest. Our own people, and the tribes immediately upon our
borders, may indeed be protected from their depredations; and the
Kanzas, Osages, Pawnees, and others, may be induced to remain at
peace among themselves, so long as they are permitted to pursue the
old custom of levying upon the Camanches and other remote nations
for their complement of steeds for the warriors, and pack-horses for
their transportation to and from the hunting ground. But the instant
they are forced to maintain a peaceful and inoffensive demeanor
towards the tribes along the Mexican border, and find that every
violation of their rights is followed by the avenging arm of our
government, the result must be, that, reduced to a wretchedness and
want which they can ill brook, and feeling the certainty of
punishment for every attempt to ameliorate their condition in the
only way they as yet comprehend, they will abandon their unfruitful
territory and remove to the neighborhood of the Mexican lands, and
there carry on a vigorous predatory warfare indiscriminately upon
the Mexicans and our own people trading or travelling in that
quarter.
"The Indians of the prairies are almost innumerable. Their superior
horsemanship, which in my opinion, far exceeds that of any other
people on the face of the earth, their daring bravery, their cunning
and skill in the warfare of the wilderness, and the astonishing
rapidity and secrecy with which they are accustomed to move in their
martial expeditions, will always render them most dangerous and
vexatious neighbors, when their necessities or their discontents may
drive them to hostility with our frontiers. Their mode and
principles of warfare will always protect them from final and
irretrievable defeat, and secure their families from participating
in any blow, however severe, which our retribution might deal out to
them.
"The Camanches lay the Mexicans under contribution for horses and
mules, which they are always engaged in stealing from them in
incredible numbers; and from the Camanches, all the roving tribes of
the far West, by a similar exertion of skill and daring, supply
themselves in turn. It seems to me, therefore, under all these
circumstances, that the apparent futility of any philanthropic
schemes for the benefit of these nations, and a regard for our own
protection, concur in recommending that we remain satisfied with
maintaining peace upon our own immediate borders, and leave the
Mexicans and the Camanches, and all the tribes hostile to these
last, to settle their differences and difficulties in their own way.
"In order to give full security and protection to our trading
parties circulating in all directions through the great prairies, I
am under the impression that a few judicious measures on the part of
the government, involving a very limited expense, would be
sufficient. And, in attaining this end, which of itself has already
become an object of public interest and import, another, of much
greater consequence, might be brought about, namely, the securing to
the States a most valuable and increasing trade, now carried on by
caravans directly to Santa Fe.
"As to the first desideratum: the Indians can only be made to
respect the lives and property of the American parties, by rendering
them dependent upon us for their supplies; which alone can be done
with complete effect by the establishment of a trading post, with
resident traders, at some point which will unite a sufficient number
of advantages to attract the several tribes to itself, in preference
to their present places of resort for that purpose; for it is a
well-known fact that the Indians will always protect their trader,
and those in whom he is interested, so long as they derive benefits
from him. The alternative presented to those at the north, by the
residence of the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company amongst them,
renders the condition of our people in that quarter less secure; but
I think it will appear at once, upon the most cursory examination,
that no such opposition further south could be maintained, so as to
weaken the benefits of such an establishment as is here suggested.
"In considering this matter, the first question which presents
itself is, where do these tribes now make their exchanges, and
obtain their necessary supplies. They resort almost exclusively to
the Mexicans, who, themselves, purchase from us whatever the Indians
most seek for. In this point of view, therefore, coeteris paribus,
it would be an easy matter for us to monopolize the whole traffic.
All that is wanted is some location more convenient for the natives
than that offered by the Mexicans, to give us the undisputed
superiority; and the selection of such a point requires but a
knowledge of the single fact, that these nations invariably winter
upon the head waters of the Arkansas, and there prepare all their
buffalo robes for trade. These robes are heavy, and, to the Indian,
very difficult of transportation. Nothing but necessity induces them
to travel any great distance with such inconvenient baggage. A post,
therefore, established upon the head waters of the Arkansas, must
infallibly secure an uncontested preference over that of the
Mexicans; even at their prices and rates of barter. Then let the
dragoons occasionally move about among these people in large
parties, impressing them with the proper estimate of our power to
protect and to punish, and at once we have complete and assured
security for all citizens whose enterprise may lead them beyond the
border, and an end to the outrages and depredations which now dog
the footsteps of the traveller, in the prairies, and arrest and
depress the most advantageous commerce. Such a post need not be
stronger than fifty men; twenty-five to be employed as hunters, to
supply the garrison, and the residue as a defense against any
hostility. Situated here upon the good lands of the Arkansas, in the
midst of abundance of timber, while it might be kept up at a most
inconsiderable expense, such an establishment within ninety miles of
Santa Fe or Taos would be more than justified by the other and more
important advantages before alluded to, leaving the protection of
the traders with the Indian tribes entirely out of the question.
"This great trade, carried on by caravans to Santa Fe, annually
loads one hundred wagons with merchandise, which is bartered in the
northern provinces or Mexico for cash and for beaver furs. The
numerous articles excluded as contraband, and the exorbitant duties
laid upon all those that are admitted by the Mexican government,
present so many obstacles to commerce, that I am well persuaded,
that if a post, such as is here suggested, should be established on
the Arkansas, it would become the place of deposit, not only for the
present trade, but for one infinitely more extended. Here the
Mexicans might purchase their supplies, and might well afford to
sell them at prices which would silence all competition from any
other quarter.
"These two trades, with the Mexicans and the Indians, centring at
this post, would give rise to a large village of traders and
laborers, and would undoubtedly be hailed, by all that section of
country, as a permanent and invaluable advantage. A few pack-horses
would carry all the clothing and ammunition necessary for the post
during the first year, and two light field-pieces would be all the
artillery required for its defense. Afterwards, all the horses
required for the use of the establishment might be purchased from
the Mexicans at the low price of ten dollars each; and, at the same
time, whatever animals might be needed to supply the losses among
the dragoons traversing the neighborhood, could be readily procured.
The Upper Missouri Indians can furnish horses, at very cheap rates,
to any number of the same troops who might be detailed for the
defense of the northern frontier; and, in other respects, a very
limited outlay of money would suffice to maintain a post in that
section of the country.
"From these considerations, and my own personal observations, I am,
therefore, disposed to believe that two posts established by the
government, one at the mouth of the Yellowstone River, and one on
the Arkansas, would completely protect all our people in every
section of the great wilderness of the West; while other advantages,
at least with regard to one of them, confirm and urge the
suggestion. A fort at the mouth of the Yellowstone, garrisoned by
fifty men would be perfectly safe. The establishment might be
constructed simply with a view to the stores, stables for the
dragoons' horses, and quarters for the regular garrison; the rest
being provided with sheds or lodges, erected in the vicinity, for
their residence during the winter months."
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Astoria; Or Anecdotes Of An Enterprise Beyond The
Rocky Mountains
Astoria |