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Features of the Wilderness
Features of the Wilderness—Herds of
Buffalo.—Antelopes— Their Varieties and Habits.—John Day.—His
Hunting Strategy—Interview with Three Arickaras—Negotiations Between
the Rival Parties—The Left-Handed and the Big Man, two Arickara
Chiefs.—Arickara Village—Its Inhabitants— Ceremonials on Landing—A
Council Lodge.—Grand Conference— Speech of Lisa.—Negotiation for
Horses.—Shrewd Suggestion of Gray Eyes, an Arickara Chief—Encampment
of the Trading Parties.
THE rival parties now coasted along the opposite
sides of the river, within sight of each other; the barges of Mr.
Hunt always keeping some distance in the advance, lest Lisa should
push on and get first to the Arickara village. The scenery and
objects, as they proceeded, gave evidence that they were advancing
deeper and deeper into the domains of savage nature. Boundless
wastes kept extending to the eye, more and more animated by herds of
buffalo. Sometimes these unwieldy animals were seen moving in long
procession across the silent landscape; at other times they were
scattered about, singly or in groups, on the broad, enameled
prairies and green acclivities, some cropping the rich pasturage,
others reclining amidst the flowery herbage; the whole scene
realizing in a manner the old Scriptural descriptions of the vast
pastoral countries of the Orient, with "cattle upon a thousand
hills."
At one place the shores seemed absolutely lined with buffaloes; many
were making their way across the stream, snorting, and blowing, and
floundering. Numbers, in spite of every effort, were borne by the
rapid current within shot of the boats, and several were killed. At
another place a number were descried on the beach of a small island,
under the shade of the trees, or standing in the water, like cattle,
to avoid the flies and the heat of the day.
Several of the best marksmen stationed themselves in the bow of a
barge which advanced slowly and silently, stemming the current with
the aid of a broad sail and a fair breeze. The buffaloes stood
gazing quietly at the barge as it approached, perfectly unconscious
of their danger. The fattest of the herd was selected by the
hunters, who all fired together and brought down their victim.
Besides the buffaloes they saw abundance of deer, and frequent gangs
of stately elks, together with light troops of sprightly antelopes,
the fleetest and most beautiful inhabitants of the prairies.
There are two kinds of antelopes in these regions, one nearly the
size of the common deer, the other not much larger than a goat.
Their color is a light gray, or rather dun, slightly spotted with
white; and they have small horns like those of the deer, which they
never shed. Nothing can surpass the delicate and elegant finish of
their limbs, in which lightness, elasticity, and strength are
wonderfully combined. All the attitudes and movements of this
beautiful animal are graceful and picturesque; and it is altogether
as fit a subject for the fanciful uses of the poet as the oft-sung
gazelle of the East.
Their habits are shy and capricious; they keep on the open plains,
are quick to take the alarm, and bound away with a fleetness that
defies pursuit. When thus skimming across a prairie in the autumn,
their light gray or dun color blends with the hue of the withered
herbage, the swiftness of their motion baffles the eye, and they
almost seem unsubstantial forms, driven like gossamer before the
wind.
While they thus keep to the open plain and trust to their speed,
they are safe; but they have a prurient curiosity that sometimes
betrays them to their ruin. When they have scud for some distance
and left their pursuer behind, they will suddenly stop and turn to
gaze at the object of their alarm. If the pursuit is not followed up
they will, after a time, yield to their inquisitive hankering, and
return to the place from whence they have been frightened.
John Day, the veteran hunter already mentioned, displayed his
experience and skill in entrapping one of these beautiful animals.
Taking advantage of its well known curiosity, he laid down flat
among the grass, and putting his handkerchief on the end of his
ramrod, waved it gently in the air. This had the effect of the
fabled fascination of the rattlesnake. The antelope approached
timidly, pausing and reconnoitering with increased curiosity; moving
round the point of attraction in a circle, but still drawing nearer
and nearer, until being within range of the deadly rifle, he fell a
victim to his curiosity.
On the 10th of June, as the party were making brisk progress with a
fine breeze, they met a canoe with three Indians descending the
river. They came to a parley, and brought news from the Arickara
village. The war party, which had caused such alarm at the sand-bar,
had reached the village some days previously, announced the approach
of a party of traders, and displayed with great ostentation the
presents they had received from them. On further conversation with
these three Indians, Mr. Hunt learnt the real danger which he had
run, when hemmed up within the sand-bar. The Mandans who were of the
war party, when they saw the boat so completely entrapped and
apparently within their power, had been eager for attacking it, and
securing so rich a prize. The Minatarees, also, were nothing loath,
feeling in some measure committed in hostility to the whites, in
consequence of their tribe having killed two white men above the
fort of the Missouri Fur Company. Fortunately, the Arickaras, who
formed the majority of the war party, proved true in their
friendship to the whites, and prevented any hostile act, otherwise a
bloody affray, and perhaps a horrible massacre might have ensued.
On the 11th of June, Mr. Hunt and his companions encamped near an
island about six miles below the Arickara village. Mr. Lisa
encamped, as usual, at no great distance; but the same sullen
jealous reserve and non-intercourse continued between them. Shortly
after pitching the tents, Mr. Breckenridge made his appearance as an
ambassador from the rival camp. He came on behalf of his companions,
to arrange the manner of making their entrance into the village and
of receiving the chiefs; for everything of the kind is a matter of
grave ceremonial among the Indians.
The partners now expressed frankly their deep distrust of the
intentions of Mr. Lisa, and their apprehensions, that, out of the
jealousy of trade, and resentment of recent disputes, he might seek
to instigate the Arickaras against them. Mr. Breckenridge assured
them that their suspicions were entirely groundless, and pledged
himself that nothing of the kind should take place. He found it
difficult, however, to remove their distrust; the conference,
therefore, ended without producing any cordial understanding; and
M'Lellan recurred to his old threat of shooting Lisa the instant he
discovered anything like treachery in his proceedings.
That night the rain fell in torrents, accompanied by thunder and
lightning. The camp was deluged, and the bedding and baggage
drenched. All hands embarked at an early hour, and set forward for
the village. About nine o'clock, when half way, they met a canoe, on
board of which were two Arickara dignitaries. One, a fine-looking
man, much above the common size, was hereditary chief of the
village; he was called the Left-handed, on account of a personal
peculiarity. The other, a ferocious-looking savage, was the war
chief, or generalissimo; he was known by the name of the Big Man, an
appellation he well deserved from his size, for he was of a gigantic
frame. Both were of fairer complexion than is usual with savages.
They were accompanied by an interpreter; a French creole, one of
those haphazard wights of Gallic origin who abound upon our
frontiers, living among the Indians like one of their own race. He
had been twenty years among the Arickaras, had a squaw and troop of
piebald children, and officiated as interpreter to the chiefs.
Through this worthy organ the two dignitaries signified to Mr. Hunt
their sovereign intention to oppose the further progress of the
expedition up the river unless a boat were left to trade with them.
Mr. Hunt, in reply, explained the object of his voyage, and his
intention of debarking at their village and proceeding thence by
land; and that he would willingly trade with them for a supply of
horses for his journey. With this explanation they were perfectly
satisfied, and putting about, steered for their village to make
preparations for the reception of the strangers.
The village of the Rikaras, Arickaras, or Ricarees, for the name is
thus variously written, is between the 46th and 47th parallels of
north latitude, and fourteen hundred and thirty miles above the
mouth of the Missouri. The party reached it about ten o'clock in the
morning, but landed on the opposite side of the river, where they
spread out their baggage and effects to dry. From hence they
commanded an excellent view of the village. It was divided into two
portions, about eighty yards apart, being inhabited by two distinct
bands. The whole extended about three-quarters of a mile along the
river bank, and was composed of conical lodges, that looked like so
many small hillocks, being wooden frames intertwined with osier, and
covered with earth. The plain beyond the village swept up into hills
of considerable height, but the whole country was nearly destitute
of trees. While they were regarding the village, they beheld a
singular fleet coming down the river. It consisted of a number of
canoes, each made of a single buffalo hide stretched on sticks, so
as to form a kind of circular trough. Each one was navigated by a
single squaw, who knelt in the bottom and paddled; towing after her
frail bark a bundle of floating wood intended for firing. This kind
of canoe is in frequent use among the Indians; the buffalo hide
being readily made up into a bundle and transported on horseback; it
is very serviceable in conveying baggage across the rivers.
The great number of horses grazing around the village, and scattered
over the neighboring hills and valleys, bespoke the equestrian habit
of the Arickaras, who are admirable horsemen. Indeed, in the number
of his horses consists the wealth of an Indian of the prairies; who
resembles an Arab in his passion for this noble animal, and in his
adroitness in the management of it.
After a time, the voice of the sovereign chief, "the Left-handed,"
was heard across the river, announcing that the council lodge was
preparing, and inviting the white men to come over. The river was
half a mile in width, yet every word uttered by the chieftain was
heard; this may be partly attributed to the distinct manner in which
every syllable of the compound words in the Indian language is
articulated and accented; but in truth, a savage warrior might often
rival Achilles himself for force of lungs1.
Now came the delicate point of management—how the two rival parties
were to conduct their visit to the village with proper
circumspection and due decorum. Neither of the leaders had spoken to
each other since their quarrel. All communication had been by
ambassadors. Seeing the jealousy entertained of Lisa, Mr.
Breckenridge, in his negotiation, had arranged that a deputation
from each party should cross the river at the same time, so that
neither would have the first access to the ear of the Arickaras.
The distrust of Lisa, however, had increased in proportion as they
approached the sphere of action; and M'Lellan, in particular, kept a
vigilant eye upon his motions, swearing to shoot him if he attempted
to cross the river first.
About two o'clock the large boat of Mr. Hunt was manned, and he
stepped on board, accompanied by Messrs. M'Kenzie and M'Lellan; Lisa
at the same time embarked in his barge; the two deputations amounted
in all to fourteen persons, and never was any movement of rival
potentates conducted with more wary exactness.
They landed amidst a rabble crowd, and were received on the bank by
the left-handed chief, who conducted them into the village with
grave courtesy; driving to the right and left the swarms of old
squaws, imp-like boys, and vagabond dogs, with which the place
abounded. They wound their way between the cabins, which looked like
dirt-heaps huddled together without any plan, and surrounded by old
palisades; all filthy in the extreme, and redolent of villainous
smells.
At length they arrived at the council lodge. It was somewhat
spacious, and formed of four forked trunks of trees placed upright,
supporting cross-beams and a frame of poles interwoven with osiers,
and the whole covered with earth. A hole sunken in the center formed
the fireplace, and immediately above was a circular hole in the apex
of the lodge, to let out the smoke and let in the daylight. Around
the lodge were recesses for sleeping, like the berths on board
ships, screened from view by curtains of dressed skins. At the upper
end of the lodge was a kind of hunting and warlike trophy,
consisting of two buffalo heads garishly painted, surmounted by
shields, bows, quivers of arrows, and other weapons.
On entering the lodge the chief pointed to mats or cushions which
had been placed around for the strangers, and on which they seated
themselves, while he placed himself on a kind of stool. An old man
then came forward with the pipe of peace or good-fellowship, lighted
and handed it to the chief, and then falling back, squatted himself
near the door. The pipe was passed from mouth to mouth, each one
taking a whiff, which is equivalent to the inviolable pledge of
faith, of taking salt together among the ancient Britons. The chief
then made a sign to the old pipe-bearer, who seemed to fill,
likewise, the station of herald, seneschal, and public crier, for he
ascended to the top of the lodge to make proclamation. Here he took
his post beside the aperture for the emission of smoke and the
admission of light; the chief dictated from within what he was to
proclaim, and he bawled it forth with a force of lungs that
resounded over all the village. In this way he summoned the warriors
and great men to council; every now and then reporting progress to
his chief through the hole in the roof.
In a little while the braves and sages began to enter one by one, as
their names were called or announced, emerging from under the
buffalo robe suspended over the entrance instead of a door, stalking
across the lodge to the skins placed on the floor, and crouching
down on them in silence. In this way twenty entered and took their
seats, forming an assemblage worthy of the pencil: for the Arickaras
are a noble race of men, large and well formed, and maintain a
savage grandeur and gravity of demeanor in their solemn ceremonials.
All being seated, the old seneschal prepared the pipe of ceremony or
council, and having lit it, handed it to the chief. He inhaled the
sacred smoke, gave a puff upward to the heaven, then downward to the
earth, then towards the east; after this it was as usual passed from
mouth to mouth, each holding it respectfully until his neighbor had
taken several whiffs; and now the grand council was considered as
opened in due form.
The chief made an harangue welcoming the white men to his village,
and expressing his happiness in taking them by the hand as friends;
but at the same time complaining of the poverty of himself and his
people; the usual prelude among Indians to begging or hard
bargaining.
Lisa rose to reply, and the eyes of Hunt and his companions were
eagerly turned upon him, those of M'Lellan glaring like a
basilisk's. He began by the usual expressions of friendship, and
then proceeded to explain the object of his own party. Those
persons, however, said he, pointing to Mr. Hunt and his companions,
are of a different party, and are quite distinct in their views;
but, added he, though we are separate parties, we make but one
common cause when the safety of either is concerned. Any injury or
insult offered to them I shall consider as done to myself, and will
resent it accordingly. I trust, therefore, that you will treat them
with the same friendship that you have always manifested for me,
doing everything in your power to serve them and to help them on
their way. The speech of Lisa, delivered with an air of frankness
and sincerity, agreeably surprised and disappointed the rival party.
Mr. Hunt then spoke, declaring the object of his journey to the
great Salt Lake beyond the mountains, and that he should want horses
for the purpose, for which he was ready to trade, having brought
with him plenty of goods. Both he and Lisa concluded their speeches
by making presents of tobacco.
The left-handed chieftain in reply promised his friendship and aid
to the new comers, and welcomed them to his village. He added that
they had not the number of horses to spare that Mr. Hunt required,
and expressed a doubt whether they should be able to part with any.
Upon this, another chieftain, called Gray Eyes, made a speech, and
declared that they could readily supply Mr. Hunt with all the horses
he might want, since, if they had not enough in the village, they
could easily steal more. This honest expedient immediately removed
the main difficulty; but the chief deferred all trading for a day or
two; until he should have time to consult with his subordinate
chiefs as to market rates; for the principal chief of a village, in
conjunction with his council, usually fixes the prices at which
articles shall be bought and sold, and to them the village must
conform.
The council now broke up. Mr. Hunt transferred his camp across the
river at a little distance below the village, and the left-handed
chief placed some of his warriors as a guard to prevent the
intrusion of any of his people. The camp was pitched on the river
bank just above the boats. The tents, and the men wrapped in their
blankets and bivouacking on skins in the open air, surrounded the
baggage at night. Four sentinels also kept watch within sight of
each other outside of the camp until midnight, when they were
relieved by four others who mounted guard until daylight. Mr. Lisa
encamped near to Mr. Hunt, between him and the village.
The speech of Mr. Lisa in the council had produced a pacific effect
in the encampment. Though the sincerity of his friendship and
good-will towards the new company still remained matter of doubt, he
was no longer suspected of an intention to play false. The
intercourse between the two leaders was therefore resumed, and the
affairs of both parties went on harmoniously.
1 Bradbury, p. 110.
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Astoria; Or Anecdotes Of An Enterprise Beyond The
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