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Camp Gossip
Camp Gossip.—Deserters.—Recruits.—Kentucky
Hunters.—A Veteran Woodman.—Tidings of Mr. Henry.-Danger From the
Blackfeet.—Alteration of Plans.—Scenery of the River.— Buffalo
Roads.—Iron Ore.—Country of the Sioux.—A Land of
Danger.-apprehensions of the Voyageurs.—Indian Scouts.— Threatened
Hostilities.—A Council of War.—An Array of Battle.—A Parley.—The
Pipe of Peace.—Speech-Making.
IT was about noon when the party left the Poncas
village, about a league beyond which they passed the mouth of the
Quicourt, or Rapid River (called, in the original French, l'Eau Qui
Court). After having proceeded some distance further, they landed,
and encamped for the night. In the evening camp, the voyageurs
gossiped, as usual, over the events of the day; and especially over
intelligence picked up among the Poncas. These Indians had confirmed
the previous reports of the hostile intentions of the Sioux, and had
assured them that five tribes, or bands, of that fierce nation were
actually assembled higher up the river, and waiting to cut them off.
This evening gossip, and the terrific stories of Indian warfare to
which it gave rise, produced a strong effect upon the imagination of
the irresolute; and in the morning it was discovered that the two
men, who had joined the party at the Omaha village, and been so
bounteously fitted out, had deserted in the course of the night,
carrying with them all their equipments. As it was known that one of
them could not swim, it was hoped that the banks of the Quicourt
River would bring them to a halt. A general pursuit was therefore
instituted, but without success.
On the following morning (May 26th), as they were all on shore,
breakfasting on one of the beautiful banks of the river, they
observed two canoes descending along the opposite side. By the aid
of spy-glasses, they ascertained that there were two white men in
one of the canoes, and one in the other. A gun was discharged, which
called the attention of the voyagers, who crossed over. They proved
to be the three Kentucky hunters, of the true "dreadnought" stamp.
Their names were Edward Robinson, John Hoback, and Jacob Rizner.
Robinson was a veteran backwoodsman, sixty-six years of age. He had
been one of the first settlers of Kentucky, and engaged in many of
the conflicts of the Indians on "the Bloody Ground." In one of these
battles he had been scalped, and he still wore a handkerchief bound
round his head to protect the part. These men had passed several
years in the upper wilderness. They had been in the service of the
Missouri Company under Mr. Henry, and had crossed the Rocky
Mountains with him in the preceding year, when driven from his post
on the Missouri by the hostilities of the Blackfeet. After crossing
the mountains, Mr. Henry had established himself on one of the head
branches of the Columbia River. There they had remained with him
some months, hunting and trapping, until, having satisfied their
wandering propensities, they felt disposed to return to the families
and comfortable homes which they had left in Kentucky. They had
accordingly made their way back across the mountains, and down the
rivers, and were in full career for St. Louis, when thus suddenly
interrupted. The sight of a powerful party of traders, trappers,
hunters, and voyageurs, well armed and equipped, furnished at all
points, in high health and spirits, and banqueting lustily on the
green margin of the river, was a spectacle equally stimulating to
these veteran backwoodsmen with the glorious array of a campaigning
army to an old soldier; but when they learned the grand scope and
extent of the enterprise in hand, it was irresistible; homes and
families and all the charms of green Kentucky vanished from their
thoughts; they cast loose their canoes to drift down the stream, and
joyfully enlisted in the band of adventurers. They engaged on
similar terms with some of the other hunters. The company was to fit
them out, and keep them supplied with the requisite equipments and
munitions, and they were to yield one half of the produce of their
hunting and trapping.
The addition of three such staunch recruits was extremely acceptable
at this dangerous part of the river. The knowledge of the country
which they had acquired, also, in their journeys and hunting
excursions along the rivers and among the Rocky Mountains was all
important; in fact, the information derived from them induced Mr.
Hunt to alter his future course. He had hitherto intended to proceed
by the route taken by Lewis and Clarke in their famous exploring
expedition, ascending he Missouri to its forks, and thence going, by
land, across the mountains. These men informed him, however, that,
on taking that course he would have to pass through the country
invested by the savage tribe of the Blackfeet, and would be exposed
to their hostilities; they being, as has already been observed,
exasperated to deadly animosity against the whites, on account of
the death of one of their tribe by the hand of Captain Lewis. They
advised him rather to pursue a route more to the southward, being
the same by which they had returned. This would carry them over the
mountains about where the head-waters of the Platte and the
Yellowstone take their rise, at a place much more easy and
practicable than that where Lewis and Clarke had crossed. In
pursuing this course, also, he would pass through a country
abounding with game, where he would have a better chance of
procuring a constant supply of provisions than by the other route,
and would run less risk of molestation from the Blackfeet. Should he
adopt this advice, it would be better for him to abandon the river
at the Arickara town, at which he would arrive in the course of a
few days. As the Indians at that town possessed horses in abundance,
he might purchase a sufficient number of them for his great journey
overland, which would commence at that place.
After reflecting on this advice, and consulting with his associates,
Mr. Hunt came to the determination to follow the route thus pointed
out, to which the hunters engaged to pilot him.
The party continued their voyage with delightful May weather. The
prairies bordering on the river were gayly painted with innumerable
flowers, exhibiting the motley confusion of colors of a Turkey
carpet. The beautiful islands, also, on which they occasionally
halted, presented the appearance of mingled grove and garden. The
trees were often covered with clambering grapevines in blossom,
which perfumed the air. Between the stately masses of the groves
were grassy lawns and glades, studded with flowers, or interspersed
with rose-bushes in full bloom. These islands were often the resort
of the buffalo, the elk, and the antelope, who had made innumerable
paths among the trees and thickets, which had the effect of the mazy
walks and alleys of parks and shrubberies. Sometimes, where the
river passed between high banks and bluffs, the roads made by the
tramp of buffaloes for many ages along the face of the heights,
looked like so many well-travelled highways. At other places the
banks were banded with great veins of iron ore, laid bare by the
abrasion of the river. At one place the course of the river was
nearly in a straight line for about fifteen miles. The banks sloped
gently to its margin, without a single tree, but bordered with grass
and herbage of a vivid green. Along each bank, for the whole fifteen
miles, extended a stripe, one hundred yards in breadth, of a deep
rusty brown, indicating an inexhaustible bed of iron, through the
center of which the Missouri had worn its way. Indications of the
continuance of this bed were afterwards observed higher up the
river. It is, in fact, one of the mineral magazines which nature has
provided in the heart of this vast realm of fertility, and which, in
connection with the immense beds of coal on the same river, seem
garnered up as the elements of the future wealth and power of the
mighty West.
The sight of these mineral treasures greatly excited the curiosity
of Mr. Bradbury, and it was tantalizing to him to be checked in his
scientific researches, and obliged to forego his usual rambles on
shore; but they were now entering the fated country of the Sioux
Tetons, in which it was dangerous to wander about unguarded.
This country extends for some days' journey along the river, and
consists of vast prairies, here and there diversified by swelling
hills, and cut up by ravines, the channels of turbid streams in the
rainy seasons, but almost destitute of water during the heats of
summer. Here and there on the sides of the hills, or along the
alluvial borders and bottoms of the ravines, are groves and skirts
of forest: but for the most part the country presented to the eye a
boundless waste, covered with herbage, but without trees.
The soil of this immense region is strongly impregnated with sulphur,
copperas, alum, and glauber salts; its various earths impart a deep
tinge to the streams which drain it, and these, with the crumbling
of the banks along the Missouri, give to the waters of that river
much of the coloring matter with which they are clouded.
Over this vast tract the roving bands of the Sioux Tetons hold their
vagrant sway, subsisting by the chase of the buffalo, the elk, the
deer, and the antelope, and waging ruthless warfare with other
wandering tribes.
As the boats made their way up the stream bordered by this land of
danger, many of the Canadian voyageurs, whose fears had been
awakened, would regard with a distrustful eye the boundless waste
extending on each side. All, however, was silent, and apparently
untenanted by a human being. Now and then a herd of deer would be
seen feeding tranquilly among the flowery herbage, or a line of
buffaloes, like a caravan on its march, moving across the distant
profile of the prairie. The Canadians, however, began to apprehend
an ambush in every thicket, and to regard the broad, tranquil plain
as a sailor eyes some shallow and perfidious sea, which, though
smooth and safe to the eye, conceals the lurking rock or treacherous
shoal. The very name of a Sioux became a watchword of terror. Not an
elk, a wolf, or any other animal, could appear on the hills, but the
boats resounded with exclamations from stem to stern, "voila les
Sioux! voila les Sioux!" (there are the Sioux! there are the Sioux!)
Whenever it was practicable, the night encampment was on some island
in the center of the stream.
On the morning of the 31st of May, as the travellers were
breakfasting on the right bank of the river, the usual alarm was
given, but with more reason, as two Indians actually made their
appearance on a bluff on the opposite or northern side, and
harangued them in a loud voice. As it was impossible at that
distance to distinguish what they said, Mr. Hunt, after breakfast,
crossed the river with Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, and advanced
boldly to converse with them, while the rest remained watching in
mute suspense the movements of the parties. As soon as Mr. Hunt
landed, one of the Indians disappeared behind the hill, but shortly
reappeared on horseback, and went scouring off across the heights.
Mr. Hunt held some conference with the remaining savage, and then
recrossed the river to his party.
These two Indians proved to be spies or scouts of a large war party
encamped about a league off, and numbering two hundred and eighty
lodges, or about six hundred warriors, of three different tribes of
Sioux; the Yangtons Ahna, the Tetons Bois-brule, and the Tetons Min-na-kine-azzo.
They expected daily to be reinforced by two other tribes, and had
been waiting eleven days for the arrival of Mr. Hunt's party, with a
determination to oppose their progress up the river; being resolved
to prevent all trade of the white men with their enemies the
Arickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees. The Indian who had galloped off
on horseback had gone to give notice of the approach of the party,
so that they might now look out for some fierce scenes with those
piratical savages, of whom they had received so many formidable
accounts.
The party braced up their spirits to the encounter, and reembarking,
pulled resolutely up the stream. An island for some time intervened
between them and the opposite side of the river; but on clearing the
upper end, they came in full view of the hostile shore. There was a
ridge of hills down which the savages were pouring in great numbers,
some on horseback, and some on foot. Reconnoitering them with the
aid of glasses, they perceived that they were all in warlike array,
painted and decorated for battle. Their weapons were bows and
arrows, and a few short carbines, and most of them had round
shields. Altogether they had a wild and gallant appearance, and,
taking possession of a point which commanded the river, ranged
themselves along the bank as if prepared to dispute their passage.
At sight of this formidable front of war, Mr. Hunt and his
companions held counsel together. It was plain that the rumors they
had heard were correct, and the Sioux were determined to oppose
their progress by force of arms. To attempt to elude them and
continue along the river was out of the question. The strength of
the mid-current was too violent to be withstood, and the boats were
obliged to ascend along the river banks. These banks were often high
and perpendicular, affording the savages frequent stations, from
whence, safe themselves, and almost unseen, they might shower down
their missiles upon the boats below, and retreat at will, without
danger from pursuit. Nothing apparently remained, therefore, but to
fight or turn back. The Sioux far outnumbered them, it is true, but
their own party was about sixty strong, well armed and supplied with
ammunition; and, beside their guns and rifles, they had a swivel and
two howitzers mounted in the boats. Should they succeed in breaking
this Indian force by one vigorous assault, it was likely they would
be deterred from making any future attack of consequence. The
fighting alternative was, therefore, instantly adopted, and the
boats pulled to shore nearly opposite to the hostile force. Here the
arms were all examined and put in order. The swivel and howitzers
were then loaded with powder and discharged, to let the savages know
by the report how formidably they were provided. The noise echoed
along the shores of the river, and must have startled the warriors
who were only accustomed to sharp reports of rifles. The same pieces
were then loaded with as many bullets as they would probably bear;
after which the whole party embarked, and pulled across the river.
The Indians remained watching them in silence, their painted forms
and visages glaring in the sun, and their feathers fluttering in the
breeze. The poor Canadians eyed them with rueful glances, and now
and then a fearful ejaculation escaped them. "Parbleu! this is a sad
scrape we are in, brother!" one would mutter to the next oarsman.
"Aye, aye!" the other would reply, "we are not going to a wedding,
my friend!"
When the boats arrived within rifle-shot, the hunters and other
fighting personages on board seized their weapons, and prepared for
action. As they rose to fire, a confusion took place among the
savages. They displayed their buffalo robes, raised them with both
hands above their heads, and then spread them before them on the
ground. At sight of this, Pierre Dorion eagerly cried out to the
party not to fire, as this movement was a peaceful signal, and an
invitation to a parley. Immediately about a dozen of the principal
warriors, separating from the rest, descended to the edge of the
river, lighted a fire, seated themselves in a semicircle round it,
and, displaying the calumet, invited the party to land. Mr. Hunt now
called a council of the partners on board of his boat. The question
was, whether to trust to the amicable overtures of these ferocious
people? It was determined in the affirmative; for, otherwise, there
was no alternative but to fight them. The main body of the party
were ordered to remain on board of the boats, keeping within shot
and prepared to fire in case of any signs of treachery; while Mr.
Hunt and the other partners (M'Kenzie, Crooks, Miller, and M'Lellan)
proceeded to land, accompanied by the interpreter and Mr. Bradbury.
The chiefs, who awaited them on the margin of the river, remained
seated in their semicircle, without stirring a limb or moving a
muscle, motionless as so many statues. Mr. Hunt and his companions
advanced without hesitation, and took their seats on the sand so as
to complete the circle. The band of warriors who lined the banks
above stood looking down in silent groups and clusters, some
ostentatiously equipped and decorated, others entirely naked but
fantastically painted, and all variously armed.
The pipe of peace was now brought forward with due ceremony. The
bowl was of a species of red stone resembling porphyry; the stem was
six feet in length, decorated with tufts of horse-hair dyed red. The
pipe-bearer stepped within the circle, lighted the pipe, held it
towards the sun, then towards the different points of the compass,
after which he handed it to the principal chief. The latter smoked a
few whiffs, then, holding the head of the pipe in his hand, offered
the other end to Mr. Hunt, and to each one successively in the
circle. When all had smoked, it was considered that an assurance of
good faith and amity had been interchanged. Mr. Hunt now made a
speech in French, which was interpreted as he proceeded by Pierre
Dorion. He informed the Sioux of the real object of the expedition
of himself and his companions, which was, not to trade with any of
the tribes up the river, but to cross the mountains to the great
salt lake in the west, in search of some of their brothers, whom
they had not seen for eleven months. That he had heard of the
intention of the Sioux to oppose his passage, and was prepared, as
they might see, to effect it at all hazards; nevertheless, his
feelings towards the Sioux were friendly, in proof of which he had
brought them a present of tobacco and corn. So saying, he ordered
about fifteen carottes of tobacco, and as many bags of corn, to be
brought from the boat and laid in a heap near the council fire.
The sight of these presents mollified the chieftain, who had,
doubtless, been previously rendered considerate by the resolute
conduct of the white men, the judicious disposition of their little
armament, the completeness of their equipments, and the compact
array of battle which they presented. He made a speech in reply, in
which he stated the object of their hostile assemblage, which had
been merely to prevent supplies of arms and ammunition from going to
the Arickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees, with whom they were at war;
but being now convinced that the party were carrying no supplies of
the kind, but merely proceeding in quest of their brothers beyond
the mountains, they would not impede them in their voyage. He
concluded by thanking them for their present, and advising them to
encamp on the opposite side of the river, as he had some young men
among his warriors for whose discretion he could not be answerable,
and who might be troublesome.
Here ended the conference: they all arose, shook hands, and parted.
Mr. Hunt and his companions re-embarked, and the boats proceeded on
their course unmolested.
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Astoria; Or Anecdotes Of An Enterprise Beyond The
Rocky Mountains
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