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Greenland Settlement
This whole story of the Greenland settlement is
historical fact which cannot be doubted. Partly by accident and
partly by design, the Norsemen had been carried from Norway to the
Orkneys and the Hebrides and Iceland, and from there to Greenland.
This having happened, it was natural that their ships should go
beyond Greenland itself. During the four hundred years in which the
Norse ships went from Europe to Greenland, their navigators had
neither chart nor compass, and they sailed huge open boats, carrying
only a great square sail. It is evident that in stress of weather
and in fog they must again and again have been driven past the foot
of Greenland, and must have landed somewhere in what is now
Labrador. It would be inconceivable that in four centuries of
voyages this never happened. In most cases, no doubt, the
storm-tossed and battered ships, like the fourteen vessels that Eric
lost, were never heard of again. But in other cases survivors must
have returned to Greenland or Iceland to tell of what they had seen.
This is exactly what happened to a bold sailor called Bjarne, the
son of Herjulf, a few years after the Greenland colony was founded.
In 986 he put out from Iceland to join his father, who was in
Greenland, the purpose being that, after the good old Norse custom,
they might drink their Christmas ale together. Neither Bjarne nor
his men had ever sailed the Greenland sea before, but, like bold
mariners, they relied upon their seafaring instinct to guide them to
its coast. As Bjarne's ship was driven westward, great mists fell
upon the face of the waters. There was neither sun nor stars, but
day after day only the thick wet fog that clung to the cold surface
of the heaving sea. To-day travellers even on a palatial steamship,
who spend a few hours shuddering in the chill grey fog of the North
Atlantic, chafing at delay, may form some idea of voyages such as
that of Bjarne Herjulf and his men. These Vikings went on undaunted
towards the west. At last, after many days, they saw land, but when
they drew near they saw that it was not a rugged treeless region,
such as they knew Greenland to be, but a country covered with
forests, a country of low coasts rising inland to small hills, and
with no mountains in sight. Accordingly, Bjarne said that this was
not Greenland, and he would not stop, but turned the vessel to the
north. After two days they sighted land again, still on the left
side, and again it was flat and thick with trees. The sea had fallen
calm, and Bjarne's men desired to land and see this new country, and
take wood and water into the ship. But Bjarne would not. So they
held on their course, and presently a wind from the south-west
carried them onward for three days and three nights. Then again they
saw land, but this time it was high and mountainous, with great
shining caps of snow. And again Bjarne said, 'This is not the land I
seek.' They did not go ashore, but sailing close to the coast they
presently found that the land was an island. When they stood out to
sea again, the south wind rose to a gale that swept them towards the
north, with sail reefed down and with their ship leaping through the
foaming surges. Three days and nights they ran before the gale. On
the fourth day land rose before them, and this time it was
Greenland. There Bjarne found his father, and there, when not at
sea, he settled for the rest of his days.
Such is the story of Bjarne Herjulf, as the Norsemen have it. To the
unprejudiced mind there is every reason to believe that his voyage
had carried him to America, to the coast of the Maritime Provinces,
or of Newfoundland or Labrador. More than this one cannot say. True,
it is hard to fit the 'two days' and the 'three days' of Bjarne's
narrative into the sailing distances. But every one who has read any
primitive literature, or even the Homeric poems, will remember how
easily times and distances and numbers that are not exactly known
are expressed in loose phrases not to be taken as literal.
The news of Bjarne's voyage and of his discovery of land seems to
have been carried presently to the Norsemen in Iceland and in
Europe. In fact, Bjarne himself made a voyage to Norway, and, on
account of what he had done, figured there as a person of some
importance. But people blamed Bjarne because he had not landed on
the new coasts, and had taken so little pains to find out more about
the region of hills and forests which lay to the south and west of
Greenland. Naturally others were tempted to follow the matter
further. Among these was Leif, son of Eric the Red. Leif went to
Greenland, found Bjarne, bought his ship, and manned it with a crew
of thirty-five. Leif's father, Eric, now lived in Greenland, and
Leif asked him to take command of the expedition. He thought, the
saga says, that, since Eric had found Greenland, he would bring good
luck to the new venture. For the time, Eric consented, but when all
was ready, and he was riding down to the shore to embark, his horse
stumbled and he fell from the saddle and hurt his foot. Eric took
this as an omen of evil, and would not go; but Leif and his crew of
thirty-five set sail towards the south-west. This was in the year
1000 A.D., or four hundred and ninety-two years before Columbus
landed in the West Indies.
Leif and his men sailed on, the saga tells us, till they came to the
last land which Bjarne had discovered. Here they cast anchor,
lowered a boat, and rowed ashore. They found no grass, but only a
great field of snow stretching from the sea to the mountains farther
inland; and these mountains, too, glistened with snow. It seemed to
the Norsemen a forbidding place, and Leif christened it Helluland,
or the country of slate or flat stones. They did not linger, but
sailed away at once. The description of the snow-covered hills, the
great slabs of stone, and the desolate aspect of the coast conveys
at least a very strong probability that the land was Labrador.
Leif and his men sailed away, and soon they discovered another land.
The chronicle does not say how many days they were at sea, so that
we cannot judge of the distance of this new country from the Land of
Stones. But evidently it was entirely different in aspect, and was
situated in a warmer climate. The coast was low, there were broad
beaches of white sand, and behind the beaches rose thick forests
spreading over the country. Again the Norsemen landed. Because of
the trees, they gave to this place the name of Markland, or the
Country of Forests. Some writers have thought that Markland must
have been Newfoundland, but the description also suggests Cape
Breton or Nova Scotia. The coast of Newfoundland is, indeed, for the
most part, bold, rugged, and inhospitable.
Leif put to sea once more. For two days the wind was from the
north-east. Then again they reached land. This new region was the
famous country which the Norsemen called Vineland, and of which
every schoolboy has read. There has been so much dispute as to
whether Vineland--this warm country where grapes grew wild--was Nova
Scotia or New England, or some other region, that it is worth while
to read the account of the Norse saga, literally translated:
They came to an island, which lay on the north side of the land,
where they disembarked to wait for good weather. There was dew upon
the grass; and having accidentally got some of the dew upon their
hands and put it to their mouths, they thought that they had never
tasted anything so sweet. Then they went on board and sailed into a
sound that was between the island and a point that went out
northwards from the land, and sailed westward past the point. There
was very shallow water and ebb tide, so that their ship lay dry; and
there was a long way between their ship and the water. They were so
desirous to get to the land that they would not wait till their ship
floated, but ran to the land, to a place where a river comes out of
a lake. As soon as their ship was afloat they took the boats, rowed
to the ship, towed her up the river, and from thence into the lake,
where they cast anchor, carried their beds out of the ship, and set
up their tents.
They resolved to put things in order for wintering there, and they
erected a large house. They did not want for salmon, in both the
river and the lake; and they thought the salmon larger than any they
had ever seen before. The country appeared to them to be of so good
a kind that it would not be necessary to gather fodder for the
cattle for winter. There was no frost in winter, and the grass was
not much withered. Day and night were more equal than in Greenland
and Iceland.
The chronicle goes on to tell how Leif and his men spent the winter
in this place. They explored the country round their encampment.
They found beautiful trees, trees big enough for use in building
houses, something vastly important to men from Greenland, where no
trees grow. Delighted with this, Leif and his men cut down some
trees and loaded their ship with the timber. One day a sailor, whose
home had been in a 'south country,' where he had seen wine made from
grapes, and who was nicknamed the 'Turk,' found on the coast vines
with grapes, growing wild. He brought his companions to the spot,
and they gathered grapes sufficient to fill their ship's boat. It
was on this account that Leif called the country 'Vineland.' They
found patches of supposed corn which grew wild like the grapes and
reseeded itself from year to year. It is striking that the Norse
chronicle should name these simple things. Had it been a work of
fancy, probably we should have heard, as in the Chinese legends, of
strange demons and other amazing creatures. But we hear instead of
the beautiful forest extending to the shore, the mountains in the
background, the tangled vines, and the bright patches of wild grain
of some kind ripening in the open glades-the very things which
caught the eye of Cartier when, five centuries later, he first
ascended the St Lawrence.
Where Vineland was we cannot tell. If the men really found wild
grapes, and not some kind of cranberry, Vineland must have been in
the region where grapes will grow. The vine grows as far north as
Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, and, of course, is found in
plenty on the coasts of Nova Scotia and New England. The chronicle
says that the winter days were longer in Vineland than in Greenland,
and names the exact length of the shortest day. Unfortunately,
however, the Norsemen had no accurate system for measuring time;
otherwise the length of the shortest winter day would enable us to
know at what exact spot Leif's settlement was made.
Leif and his men stayed in Vineland all winter, and sailed home to
Greenland in the spring (1001 A.D.). As they brought timber, much
prized in the Greenland settlement, their voyage caused a great deal
of talk. Naturally others wished to rival Leif. In the next few
years several voyages to Vineland are briefly chronicled in the
sagas.
First of all, Thorwald, Leif's brother, borrowed his ship, sailed
away to Vineland with thirty men, and spent two winters there.
During his first summer in Vineland, Thorwald sent some men in a
boat westward along the coast. They found a beautiful country with
thick woods reaching to the shore, and great stretches of white
sand. They found a kind of barn made of wood, and were startled by
this first indication of the presence of man. Thorwald had, indeed,
startling adventures. In a great storm his ship was wrecked on the
coast, and he and his men had to rebuild it. He selected for a
settlement a point of land thickly covered with forest. Before the
men had built their houses they fell in with some savages, whom they
made prisoners. These savages had bows and arrows, and used what the
Norsemen called 'skin boats.' One of the savages escaped and roused
his tribe, and presently a great flock of canoes came out of a large
bay, surrounded the Viking ship, and discharged a cloud of arrows.
The Norsemen beat off the savages, but in the fight Thorwald
received a mortal wound. As he lay dying he told his men to bury him
there in Vineland, on the point where he had meant to build his
home. This was done. Thorwald's men remained there for the winter.
In the spring they returned to Greenland, with the sad news for Leif
of his brother's death.
Other voyages followed. A certain Thorfinn Karlsevne even tried to
found a permanent colony in Vineland. In the spring of 1007, he took
there a hundred and sixty men, some women, and many cattle. He and
his people remained in Vineland for nearly four years. They traded
with the savages, giving them cloth and trinkets for furs.
Karlsevne's wife gave birth there to a son, who was christened
Snorre, and who was perhaps the first white child born in America.
The Vineland colony seems to have prospered well enough, but
unfortunately quarrels broke out between the Norsemen and the
savages, and so many of Karlsevne's people were killed that the
remainder were glad to sail back to Greenland.
The Norse chronicles contain a further story of how one of
Karlsevne's companions, Thorward, and his wife Freydis, who was a
daughter of Eric the Red, made a voyage to Vineland. This expedition
ended in tragedy. One night the Norsemen quarrelled in their winter
quarters, there was a tumult and a massacre. Freydis herself killed
five women with an axe, and the little colony was drenched in blood.
The survivors returned to Greenland, but were shunned by all from
that hour.
After this story we have no detailed accounts of voyages to
Vineland. There are, however, references to it in Icelandic
literature. There does not seem any ground to believe that the
Norsemen succeeded in planting a lasting colony in Vineland. Some
people have tried to claim that certain ancient ruins on the New
England coast--an old stone mill at Newport, and so on--are
evidences of such a settlement. But the claim has no sufficient
proof behind it.
On the whole, however, there seems every ground to conclude that
again and again the Norsemen landed on the Atlantic coast of
America. We do not know where they made their winter quarters, nor
does this matter. Very likely there were temporary settlements in
both 'Markland,' with its thick woods bordering on the sea, and in
other less promising regions. It should be added that some writers
of authority refuse even to admit that the Norsemen reached America.
Others, like Nansen, the famous Arctic explorer, while admitting the
probability of the voyages, believe that the sagas are merely a sort
of folklore, such as may be found in the primitive literature of all
nations. On the other hand, John Fiske, the American historian, who
devoted much patient study to the question, was convinced that what
is now the Canadian coast, with, probably, part of New England too,
was discovered, visited, and thoroughly well known by the Norse
inhabitants of Greenland. For several centuries they appear to have
made summer voyages to and from this 'Vineland the Good' as they
called it, and to have brought back timber and supplies not found in
their own inhospitable country. It is quite possible that further
investigation may throw new light on the Norse discoveries, and even
that undeniable traces of the buildings or implements of the
settlers in Vineland may be found. Meanwhile the subject,
interesting though it is, remains shrouded in mystery.
The Dawn of Canadian History, A Chronicle of
Aboriginal Canada, 1915
Chronicle of
Aboriginal Canada |